As usual, I read the GD documentation and loads of blogs before doing anything, and the thing that stuck with me was a couple of measurements, those being 415 mm from the outer edges of the stanchions and 505 mm; this being the measurement between the centre points of the spindles. To me, the 505 mm value was sacrosanct, the other 415 mm measurement I had room to wiggle things about a bit.
All marked up and ready to go
As with everything, I first made my own measurements to verify where to drill the two spindle holes, and I cross-checked their position from different reference points on the car. And as you can see I came up with a variety of "correct" positions... Not good!!! So I decided to use the centre point on the scuttle as my "ground zero." However, I noticed there was a 3 mm discrepancy between this and the centre point of the windscreen. Also, as the windscreen is a flush fit to the bodywork on both sides i.e. the stanchion legs are butt-tight to the bodywork, no room for manoeuvre there. So, in reality, my centre point was defined for me, and [in this case] a 3 mm offset from dead-centre could be down to anything and isn't going to be noticed by anyone [except me.]
Wiper Spindles: I measured and marked a point 25.25 cm from the centre point of the windscreen. Then I measured where to put the rubber gasket (5 mm from the screen rubber) and taped it in place. I then marked where the elliptical hole was to be drilled and taped the chrome spindle cover to the top of it. This is to provide me with a correctly angled drill line.
First, I made a 3 mm pilot hole, then used successively bigger drills up to the diameter that was just below the diameter of the spindle. I then removed the spindle cover and gasket and used the Dremel rotary sander to finish off and clean up the hole. Test fitted the spindle and chrome cover and... Not good!!!
I had no thread showing for the retainer nut to catch onto, it was as if the mechanism was too short... Tea and think time
Further investigation gleaned the mechanism was designed for a thin metal-skinned scuttle. The GRP on my scuttle is ~4-5 mm thick, so the aluminium-angled spacer needed shortening to produce the desired one-two thread clearance above the nut.
I shortened the spacers using the Dremel and the metal cutting disc and test-fitted the spindles, and I was quite pleased with the result. However, I noticed, looking from the underside, the angled spacers were not sitting flush with the scuttle. Checked the spacer angles and they were correct, so it had to be something else causing them not to sit properly. The problem was the shape of the scuttle. It being, a.) not a flat surface (i.e. curved): and b.) the GRP, it is inherently lumpy and bumpy. The curvature was not an issue, the lumpiness though was the problem as the high spots prevented the spacer tube to sit properly. So I lightly sanded the GRP to make it flatter and used some gelcoat to create a mould for the spacers to sit snugly on. Didn't' need to make much but it was very fiddly gelcoating upside down. No major issues but I knew I only had about 8 minutes before the gelcoat would "go off,' And in this theme, I didn't fanny around and I put the spindle mechanisms back in place and tightened them up quite quickly.
Also, having some spare still-wet gelcoat, I spread some around the outside of the spacer tubes and on the body thereby sealing the two together. Twenty minutes later the mixture was still very tacky and hadn't gone off. This concerned me... I used the same mix ratio as usual, but what was different was the ambient temperature. It was a lot colder. However, a gentle blast with the heat gun and the issue was resolved. The spacers now sit flush on the scuttle underside and the wiper mechanisms are very - very secure.
Note... the wiper mechanisms did not stick to the inside of the tubes because a.) I was careful not to get wet gelcoat everywhere, b.) I could unscrew and take them out to clean the inside of the spacer tubes without dislodging the tube position, and, c.) I smeared them with wax (just in case.)
Much Better, and a good strong fix
Am happy with this
Wiper Motor: Fitted the wiper motor to the steering rack and bent the middle bundy tube to the same shape as the scuttle... Problem though!!! The middle bundy tube was 2 cm too long, and, as it had pre-flared ends, I obviously thought I had drilled the holes in the wrong positions. But, as the spindle spacing was correct [505 mm] and the distance from the outer stanchion edges was near-as-dam-it [415 mm,] the tube must be the wrong length. So it was I cut the tube to the correct and re-flared using the end of a centre punch ... I don't have, and I have no intention of buying a flaring kit for a one-time event.
Fitted everything in place, and I have to admit it looks pretty neat. Not tightened anything up yet as I have some more drilling to do in the area so it'll all have to come out again soon. I do intend to change the nuts on the mechanisms and motor to nyloc ones though.
Now that all was fitted and tested, I realised I had to redirect the wiper motion to make the wipers sweep the opposite way. There was a 50:50 chance of this needing doing and it was not too difficult, but it took loads of courage (after reading loads of blogs) to actually do it... (One of those easy, scary jobs)
Removed the motor cover, then the inner post spring clip, then the cog wheel and post. Then I could see the white plastic lug that needed moving, Gently prised it out and relocated it in the corresponding two holes on the opposite side of the cog wheel. Reassembled everything making sure to grease things up again... And job-dun.
When testing, I attach a tie-wrap to the wiper spindle; then I could see exactly where the ‘sweep’ went and where the wipers ‘parked’ to. Fitted the wipers and bent them (the arms) to make sure the blades parked parallel to the bottom of the windscreen... Much neater.
Windscreen Washer Jets
I wanted two screen washers because I think it looks better and it’ll give a better overall ‘wash’... Measured where best to drill the holes for the outlets and fitted the jets. Simple as that! Piping up was also straightforward and I did tuck enough away behind the dash' to allow clearance of the bottle from the bulkhead if I needed to remove the bottle for some reason.
Everything Fitted and Adjusted
(Just need some blue-coloured water in the bottle and that's a job well done)