(And lots of photos of runs-out, meet-ups, and shows)

Brakes

Serious brake-bling going on here. And 'hard' lines and cables were already fitted to the rolling chassis.

Calipers/Discs/Pads: Calipers are of the huge AP5200 4-pot racing type; black and shiny. The pads are Pagid RSH 42, and the discs are 330 mm monsters. It's a pity to hide them behind the wheels though.

(I bet these will stop the car on a sixpence even if I use custard as brake fluid)

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Handbrake Assembly

Cabling: The handbrake has three adjuster points, two in the tunnel for differential adjustment to each rear wheel, and one on the handbrake itself.
 
Adjusted the cables that connect the caliper (via a couple of polypropylene adjusters) on the cables for an “eyeballed” equal amount of tension at the caliper end; making sure the balancer bracket (the bracket that joins the two cables to the handbrake cable actuator plate on the chassis) remained 'square on'.
  
Assembly was straightforward but fiddly; two bolts holding the plate to the floor and two bolts holding the handbrake to the plate. Drilled a hole in the centre of the cable retaining bolt for an “R” retaining clip. This is in addition to a nyloc nut that holds the handbrake cable bolt in position.
 
Fitted the handbrake and adjusted it for a healthy 4 clicks of tension
 
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Brake Bleeding: One bleed nipple on each of the rear calipers and two on each of the front AP Racing, 4 pot calipers. For bleeding, I used a Gunson ‘Eezibleed”; this piece of kit is a work of engineering magic. None of this two-man open-and-close, up-and-down stuff ever again for me.

Tightened up all the unions and checked all the other connections, crossed my fingers, and filled up the reservoir… Then connected up the Eezibleed and followed the instructions…

I also, as a precaution, lined the bottom and sides of the compartment where the master cylinders live (in front of the driver), with kitchen foil, so if I ever do get a leak all the liquid will be contained and will not contaminate the GRP.

 

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