Surprisingly not a lot to say about the dashboard wiring... However, keeping detailed notes and keeping my diagrams up-to-date was essential [for me] to keep track of what I'd done... Didn't need to use about 30% of the loom as I didn't go the LS or Smith's route, and I did reuse some other spurs for other things e.g. accessories and to feed my configuration e.g. Speedhut Gauges.
- Fog Light Switch: CBS (With integral 'on' warning light)
- Hazard Warning Switch: CBS (Black Illuminated Push Button type)
- Heater Switch (For Fan): Europa Spares (The old-fashioned Bakelite type)
- Heater Valve Controller: CBS (The old-fashioned pull/push Bakelite type)
- Light Switch: Europa Spares (The old-fashioned Bakelite type)
- Starter Button: Pilgrim Motorsports (An awesome Snake embossed button that doubles as an extra ign' warning light)
- Warning Lights: CBS (Chrome LEDs)
The Speedhut gauges are very very nice... Not too bulky at the back end and they come with all sensors and plugs so hooking up was quite straightforward. 0.2 Amps per unit and a single wire hook-up for power, dial and pointer illumination. One thing that was bugging me was how the sensors electrically connected to the GD loom... Fears were allayed by research... They didn't need to, but this was an option.
The yellow wires are the individual sensor feeds. I'm not going to recreate or unnecessarily complicate things by using the engine loom plug as an interface to the dash' loom because the sensor wires are all factory-made up and ready to plug directly into each sensor.
I didn't want to have to faff around with my 'real' dashboard blank as it would have gotten in the way of the wires and things if I need to fiddle and fix things. What I wanted was everything working before I properly assembled it so I made a ply mock-up to mount just what I needed to see when the engine was running. Connected everything up to the obvious with the relevant loom spurs and sensors.
Connected up the gauges illumination [serial feed] power and gnd lines to the Illumination and gnd outputs on terminals L5 (Light Switch) RW and B.) The [internal] power for all the gauges is provided from a single 12v keyed ignition wire (red), and there is a gauge brightness knob which I will mount on the underside of the dash' to the right of the driver.
Self-Cancelling Indicators: To enable this I drilled and tapped for a couple of M3 pins which I positioned on the inside of the steering wheel boss. These will 'trip' the little plastic lug that pops out of the stalk when the indicator is activated. I used a couple of M3 socket-head cap bolts for this as the head is a perfect size and shape to ‘catch’ the plastic lug. Lots of measuring for this as the drill holes were quite close to the outer edge of the boss.