Iron and Chromework



Door Ironwork

I decided to Hammerite all the ironwork as I had a pot sitting in the garage that was more than enough to do everything with a couple of coats. Hung everything up and just painted away. 



Boot/Bonnet Hinges

Fitting the boot lid was quite straightforward. Fixed the rubber seal in place then lined up the boot edges on the outside (whilst I was inside with the tape measure and marker pen and a torch). Packed out the fixing positions with washers to centralise the boot, and bolted it in place.

Hinges: The hinges are a work of engineering art. Couldn't resist them. Quite a straightforward fitting; just trim the spacing flange to size, adjust the hinge spacing with packing washers, bolt them in place, attach boot and adjust for flatness as necessary... Job done.

  

  

 

Boot Handle: Marked up for the boot handle and drilled and fitted. I did, however, use bolts, not the supplied self tappers to secure it.

 

The Catch: Laying in the boot (again) with it closed. I marked up for the catch receiving plate, and as again fitted it with bolts, not self tappers.



Bonnet Handles & Latches

Same procedure as for the boot, however, marking up without the engine in the way was a really good way to see what's going on. 

Handles: Fitting the bonnet handles and latches was a bit fiddly (what isn't) but nothing too intricate that time and tea wouldn't resolve.

The first thing I did was to verify the bonnet drill markings made by GD. This I did by making a paper template (not a cardboard one.) And not having any "golden" specific reference points that I could rely on as being good for both sides, I creased the paper around the curve of one corner of the bonnet and marked where the factory mark was. Then I used the same template (but flipped over) to see how far the other side's mark was 'off' with respect to the first mark... Spot on!

I could have faffed around measuring from the centre of the bonnet when lined up with the centre of the car but that would have been complicated and fiddly. For this job I essentially just needed to check that the two handles were in the same relative positions, the paper template marking method being foolproof for this type of measuring.

Masked up around the marker hole and marked the shape of the fibre gasket. Then I simply routed out the shape with the Dremel and finished it off with some hand filing. 

Catches: The bonnet catches were fiddly to fit, but this is one area (out of the many other areas on the car) that needed to be spot-on.

Marked up and drilled for the handles first, then fitted the square spindle-bar and marked up to cut the key-slot in the bulkhead for the cambered catch. Then when everything was working nice and smoothy, I cut the spindle-bar stop to the correct length to make it look neat...

The last job was put rubber ‘D’ seal around the whole rim to stop water ingress into the engine area…

 



Underdash' Ironwork

This consists of the steering/wiper motor cross-member, dash' support cross-member and three trays.

The steering/wiper cross-member was the main piece to be concerned with, and this had to be fixed in place utilising the windscreen stanchion brackets and bolts, so it was quite critical to get the packing right so as to not create stress on the windscreen uprights or the windscreen fixing points.

The centre tray was pre-drilled, and metal tabs were factory-welded in place for positioning. However, the outer driver and passenger side trays did not have any tabs, and the method of attaching used by some builders was to rivnut into the tubing. But, I decided to follow the theme of the centre tray and I welded some steel tabs onto the tubing and tapped for one M5 bolt in each. Am happy with this as it means I can remove the trays easily, and I haven't weakened the tubing with unnecessary drilling and rivnutting.

The front of the trays is supported and held in place by just slotting them under the lip of the dashboard; and of which are held in position very nicely.

   

   

Fixing the two steering/windscreen cross-member brackets to the tunnel top caught me out as I put the body on before I secured this cross-rail to the tunnel-top... But this will work in my favour if I need to work in this area in the future.

Initially, I drilled the two holes in the tunnel-top expecting to be able to reach under [the engine bay area] to put the nuts on that would have secured the two angle brackets to the tunnel top; but the thin metal sheet on top of the chassis prevented that. So I will put some spacers in to hold everything in place. Not sure if I’m going to use small or large washers yet... I'll decide when I fit the carpets.

   



Roll Hoops

Pre-fitting Activities: Made an 'internal' style plywood template for the roll-hoop legs as it was easier to see and judge things using an internal type of template. I also removed the boot lid. I really didn't need to mess up my shiny body shell surface -and it made sense for ease of access

Rear Leg Mounting Bracket: I needed to remove the top wishbone bolt to fix in place the roll-hoop mounting bracket. Took off the rear wheel and I was pleased to find that access to the bolt was really quite good. A couple of spanners and a gentle tap with a hammer later and the bolt popped out. Eased the rear hoop bracket over the wishbone mounting point, ensuring the vertical fixing hole was on the outermost side of the car, a smear of grease on the wishbone bolt and reassembled... Easy!

 

I decided not to tighten the wishbone bolt up completely because there was some vertical 'see-saw' movement in the bracket. I.e. ~ +-1-2 mm. Not concerned about this as the metal mount is held in position just by the wishbone bolt so it naturally has a bit of play. It'll all firm up and sit square and flush and solid, then I'll tighten up the bolt properly.


   Hoop Bracket1

And with the hoops fitted



Roll Hoop Installation: Working from the underside and from the outermost chassis fixing hole, made a small hole in the body shell directly above the chassis fixing point. This was my reference point.

The roll hoop leg diameters are 51 mm for the main 180o curve, and 38 mm for the rear dogleg, so I will need to drill holes of about 60 mm and 43 mm. This to allow space for the rubber gaiters. Plenty of room for manoeuvre here and the plan is to route-out three small ~15 mm centre positioning holes then centre everything up before going crazy with the Dremel.

Continuing, I routed out the ~15 mm pilot holes, and this was enough to get my finger in to locate the centre position of the chassis fixing points and get my bearings (metaphorically speaking.)

Then I whittled away with the Dremel until I could drop an M12 bolt into each chassis fixing point. This ensured the absolute dead-centre points were always visible [above the floor of the boot] for me to accurately define and mark-up the proper circumference. And for this, I made cardboard templates [of the circular profile] of the legs. These to define the precise circular location for the holes - remembering the rear leg is 38 mm Ø -NOT 51 mm... So far so good!

I levelled the chassis by adjusting the tyre pressures. Far easier than faffing around with axle stands and pieces of packing on an uneven surface (there is no point because, on my driveway, nothing is really flat.)

The next job was to define and drill the three top holes - the seriously scary bit. I put some masking tape on the underside, to mark the top centre-points and used a plumb bob to find the vertically aligned corresponding centre positions of the lower fixing points i.e. the centre of the M12. As I don't have a proper plum-bob I used a key on a key ring connected to the end of a screwdriver with cotton. Marked-up to the centre points on the bottom M12's marker pegs, and, in my humble opinion, this was good enough to align the top to within gnats-hair of bottom-dead-centre.

Drilled six 2 mm holes in the top of the shell (the scariest and most traumatic bit of the whole operation) and threaded the plumb-bob through to check the vertical alignments, then I adjusted where necessary with the Dremel.

Roll Hoops - Hole Cutting & Fitting: At this point in the proceedings I needed to ensure the hoops fitted properly. To do this, I cut the hex' heads off a couple of M12 bolts and attached these headless, threaded shafts to the hoops. Note... the hoop threads are 1/2" UNF but an M12 goes in a thread or two. These 'pegs' functioned as temporary positioning posts and were perfect because I could locate the chassis fixing holes without having to get under the car and faff around with proper bolts and a mirror.

            Problem..! I measured the main hoop and chassis holes for alignment and there was a discrepancy of 0.5 cm on both sides... Finally, after an hour or so, I discovered the discrepancy was in the hoops. The spring-back was ever so slightly too severe. The top of the hoop, i.e. the part just after the 180O turn spacing was 30.5 cm, the bottom i.e. at the ends of the legs spacing was 30.0 cm, and the chassis hole spacing was 30.5 cm. So all in all, everything was spot-on and the eventual fit would be perfect with no slop. This all came to light when I was about to drill the top holes. I knew I wasn't happy about 'something' and I delayed and delayed until I finally downed-tools to work out what was going on. This was when I decided to manufacture a roll hoop template to simulate smaller diameter legs. Having this meant I could drill the top holes without any risk of getting it too wrong. I.e. I could locate the top-to-bottom with the error margin of the diameter of half a broom handle.

Drilled the two larger leg holes and inserted my 'Trojan' hoop, and it all aligned up very nicely with the 30.5 cm spacing. So now it was time to go crazy with the Dremel.

Masked-up and marked for the larger holes and Dremelled them to 53 mm. Then I dropped the roll bar in (backwards of course) to check the fit and the alignment. Then with the hoop sitting on the top of the bottom of the boot, i.e. with the M12 pegs in place and inserted into the chassis fixing points, I scribed around the legs to accurately define the 'proper' bottom positions. Ten minutes later, all was drilled out and I was using the Dremel sanding wheel to finish and round off the holes... The sound of the hoops dropping in with a metal-on-metal clunk was music to my ears... Excellent.

With the hoop still in place (still backwards) I drew a centre line, 90O mid' 'U' bend to check the centre position for the rear leg hole. The rear [top] hole is the awkward one due to the top angle of the leg; and, as it was a smaller diameter, the margin for error was less... If I messed this one up it would have been an awful lot of work to repair... Messing-up was not an option.

Drilled out the rear holes and all was well. I did though, at this stage, have to insert the hoops (the correct way around this time) but at a slight angle to get them in. I.e. inserting the front first, then the back. This because all the holes were smaller than they would eventually be and the 0.5 mm spring-back difference at the bottom of the legs made things a bit snug at the top entry points.

Dressing the Holes: I marked up for the 'proper' top hole diameters, with the allowance for the rubber gaiters, by scribing around the edge of the circumferences of the legs using a washer as a spacer. Then I removed everything (once again) and tidied things up with the Dremel sanding wheel. Also, I had to take into account the lateral alignment of the two hoops with respect to each other. I did this by putting a straight edge along the front of them to make sure they were both perfectly aligned laterally. Any difference will be removed by putting a penny washer or two under the offending rear leg.


Gaiter Trimming: I placed the gaiter over the end of the roll-hoop to normalise the rubber around the diameter of the leg-end Then I re-defined the diameter of the inner rubber hole by 'eye-balling' what I had to fit the gaiter over. It had to fit snugly around the post. Then it was a straightforward task of carefully snipping away the surplus rubber with sharp scissors until I achieved a snug-fitting diameter... Not going to fit the escutcheons yet - not ready for that.

  


Filling the Hoops with Foam: This, apparently, is to stop the hoops acting as resonators and interfering with the driver experience [as if!] I.e. to not have the chassis's something-or-other resonate up through the hoops and getting on the driver's nerves. So having to take a leap-of-faith, I bought a canister of sound-insulating expanding foam and did-the-messy-deed.

First, I sloshed some water around the inside of the hoop, this to assist with the setting of the foam. And when doing this I found that the rear leg of each hoop was independent of the big loop i.e. no hole between them, so I had to fill them separately.

Filled the rear-leg first. No drama here, just squirted the foam in until it gushed sedately out of the same hole. The main legs of the hoop were easier to fill but ever so much-more a messy job. Inserted the filler tube and used a J-cloth to create a seal; the intent being to squirt the foam in one end until it appeared from the other end. And low-and-behold after a very long minute or two the foam did erupt from the other leg hole.

24 hours later, the foam had set so it was just a matter of cleaning up the threads of the holes...


Securing the Hoops: Fixing the hoops to the chassis took a bit of time… Back wheels off and plenty of room to see what I had to do…

Dropped the hoops in and fitted the inner bolt first, then I fitted the outer bolt. Had to gently coax the outer front legs to mate up with the bolt. Nothing that a padded scissor jack couldn't take care of. This was the easiest way to adjust the leg width to line up the thread with the bolt... Only had to flex the hoop about a couple of mm.

When the four front bolts were in place, I didn’t tighten these up too tight as I needed to adjust the lateral alignment. This I did by placing a straight-edge up against the four front legs and eyeballing to see if they lined up. And with respect to this, I had to pack-out one rear-leg hoop with three washers to line it [the front] up with the other hoop. No right or wrong hoop to pack out; just did what seemed to be optically correct.

Tightened up the six bolts and jobs-a-goodun…

Forgot to mention… I slid the gaiters and escutcheons and inner boot hoop seals in place before I bolted the hoops to the chassis. Needed to do this in anticipation of drilling the body for the hoop escutcheon retaining bolts. Don’t want to faff around taking the hoops off again to fit these.


Conclusion: Drilling and fitting the hoops was a very rewarding part of my build, and I'm very pleased how everything looks. However, this activity came with a stratospheric level of self-induced stress... Drilling holes in my shiny polished -and very visible- top surface was not a thing I was looking forward to.



Radiator Guard

This is a very strong, laser-cut, stainless steel bit-of-kit which sits ~2 cm in front of the radiator; top fixing is to the underside of the radiator cross-rail (four M5’s) and four M5’s fix the bottom lip to the engine-bay under-tray.

Comment: During the radiator guard manufacturing process of the hexagonal-shaped grill holes, it is normal for a [stainless steel] piece of this type to ‘flex’ and distort due to the laser cutting process; so I tie-wrapped a piece of wood to the front to straighten things up for the marking-up and fitting. 

Guard with stabilising piece of wood in place

 

   

Fitted to the radiator cross-rail

Fitting Procedure:

    • Marked the centre points of the radiator top-rail and the top-and-bottom of the radiator guard. These were my centre reference points.
    • Temporarily fitted the engine bay under-tray. This to be my ‘optical’ reference to make sure the grill lined up symmetrically between the ‘winged’ shaped tray.
    • Held the grill in place and lined it up [to be centralised] in front of the radiator and under-tray. 
    • Marked the ‘optical actual’ top position of the grill on the radiator top-rail.
      • Note… There was a 1 cm difference between the centre-point of the chassis radiator-rail and the centre of the guard with respect to the radiator and under-tray. This is not a huge amount given all the variables involved, but, because of this, the bottom lip [of the guard] was off-symmetry [with respect to the centre of the under-tray and radiator] by 5 mm. And, because of the ‘winged’ design of the under-tray, this difference is plainly visible (if you know where to look); so I offset the grill 5 mm to compensate. Note also… The radiator and under-tray were [symmetrically] spot on.
    • Removed the radiator top-rail and drilled and tapped for four M5 fixing holes.
    • Refitted the top-rail and bolted the guard to the rail. 

 

At this point, I ‘properly’ fitted the engine-bay under-tray to allow me to more accurately

define where the bottom holes of the guard needed to be drilled.


Guard Fitting cont’:

    • With some temporary spacers in place to keep the guard parallel to the radiator, marked for the four M5 under-tray fixing holes.
    • Remove the under-tray (for the umpteenth time) to drill the holes.
    • Replaced the under-tray and used 3 x 20 mm spacer washers between the under-tray and the bottom-lip of the guard to finish the installation.

 Conclusion: A very fiddly but very rewarding job.



Engine-Bay Under-tray

This is an equally very nice piece of fabricated aluminium that covers the front underside of the engine bay. It performs two functions: 1.) To stop water splashing up over the engine, and 2.) It funnels and directs the incoming air to the radiator.

  

Fitting procedure:

    • With the chassis radiator mounting cross-rail loosened, removed the two [bottom] radiator retaining bolts and slid the under-tray in place; then, replaced the bolts [hand tight only] to make sure the radiator and tray were centralised and in the correct position.
      • Note… I extended the fixing groves (sideways by a couple of mm each way) to make sure there was plenty of room for the radiator fixing bolts to not be in contact with any plating; so preventing any unnecessary stress being placed on them if it was a bit too snug when everything was tightened up.
    • Jiggled the tray and the radiator about a bit to [positionally] ‘normalise’ them.
    • Marked up for and drilled the four M8 engine-bay fixing bolts.
      • Note… I also put in a couple of spacer washers between the rear under-tray fixing bracket holes and the engine bulkhead holes keep everything level. I.e. Where the engine-bay was GRP’d to the front air-intake section of the body-shell, there is a glass-fibre reinforcing lip, so not wanting to ‘draw-in’ the rear-half of the under-tray fixing bracket to the bulkhead when tightened up, a couple of spacers was the obvious solution to not distort or stress anything… I’m only talking two washers here, not much I know, and it does the trick and it all looks neater too.

  

 

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Conclusion: Fitting the under-tray and radiator guard was a chicken-and-egg situation as they needed to look optically correct. And, as stated, I offset the guard 5 mm to one side to achieve this… So, if you take a peek in the air-intake and look at the two lower corners of the guard, you will see they line up nicely with the under-tray.



Number Plate Mounting Frame 

This is a stainless 19 mm diameter tubular steel frame which simply bolts to (after an age of measuring and centralising) the inner sidewalls of the engine-bay. Drilled the four M8 holes making sure the number plate sat an inch or so inside, and central to the scoop. Used a couple of “Stauff” clamps to fix the number plate to the frame.

  

 

With 'Stauff' clamps in place for mounting the number plate