Gearbox: Tremec TKO-500

 

This subject has been a good learning experience. I obviously knew about gear and final drive ratio's and their effect on shaft spinning speeds, but I didn't account for how wheel size was so important in achieving the predicted speed of the car with respect to the gear and final drive parameters.

Also, the term "foot pounds of torque" caught me completely off guard. But it's not too much of a mystery now and I know enough to be able to talk about these subjects for a couple of minutes each... And that's good enough for me! 

 

My Car's Theoretical Speed Calculations


Clutch: Ram Clutch 88794HDT

Clutch Slave Unit: MDL MD-910-1002 Hydraulic External Slave T5/TKO LF Series Type 2


Diff': BTR Hydrotrack speed sensitive limited slip differential (Ratio 3:07.1)


Gearbox Installation: Unpacked the Gearbox and was quite surprised how compact it was. Four bolts and literally 'job-dun.' (not quite..!)

I decided to fit the gearbox to the engine first. This to see how and where the clutch slave cylinder had to go and how much room I had to fit the fixing plate. As I have to drill the bell housing for the fixing bracket it seems the best, and least risky approach. 

I cut away the cardboard box leaving the gearbox perched nicely in the support packaging. Offered the 26 spline output shaft to the engine using a couple of trolley jacks and a flat board to line it up.

   

  

Pushed the gearbox in as far as I could, gave it a wiggle, and all was well... But I couldn't get it to go that last 1/4 inch. And having read not to draw it in with air tools (which, by the way I don't have) or by tightening up the bolts to draw it in, I was a bit stumped.

So back to the web for inspiration and guidance and where I found a YouTube video of Tim (the chap that built my engine from the Engine Factory) demonstrating how to fit a Tremec to a Ford engine... Essentially he was demonstrating exactly what I had to do. He too had the same condition for the last 1/4 inch, and apparently it's quite normal for things to get a bit snug at that stage. So he gently tightened the bolts with a socket and it went in quite easily. If it's good enough for Tim, its good enough for me, and back I went and very gently drew (or is that drawed) the gearbox in using the four bolts and a spanner. Hardly any pressure needed on the spanner so I was pleased about that.

Note... I was sure the splines were engages as I measured how long they were and how long the output shaft hole was with respect to the bell housing. And with 1/4 inch to go they were very much engaged with the engine pilot bearing.


Clutch Slave Cylinder Installation: Fitting this was quite straightforward. Only needed to drill a couple of holes in the bell housing to mount the "L" shaped mounting plate.

Complete Kit

Slave cylinder and internal piston and plunger

  

Rounded plunger bolt that fits into the clutch fork connecting bolt

All fitted and ready and waiting for me to get my act together on the rest of the car