Type/Size: V8 Ford 302 (5 ltr, 350 bhp)
Ready for Shipping
(Link to my engine running at the factory)
(Link to engine running - sump view)
Background & Preparation: Having mentally worked my way around the engine and gearbox, and, having plucked up enough courage to get my act together, I decided the safest way to install was to use the levelling-bar method. This option virtually eliminates the risk and there is no chance of anything slipping or causing undue pressure on anything. E.g. sump, water pump etc.
I did consider buying an engine hoist, but that would end up being serious garage jewelry after using it once; so I hired one. But I couldn't hire a leveling-bar; only webbing straps which I didn't want to use so I decided to buy one... (Less garage jewelry and something I can sell easily if I decide to...)
Installation: The Edelbrock RPM Performer heads have three bolt holes at each end. These for bling, pulley kits, and for lifting. However, the threads are Imperial (3/8 and 7/16th); and figure the odds on this... not a mile from where I live there is a Tool and Bolt shop called "Harrogate Tool & Bolt Ltd" which specialize in Imperial nuts and bolts (as well as Metric.) So a couple of hours later I had the necessary high-tensile imperial bolts I needed. And most of this time was spent in the new-found Aladdin's Cave of Imperial goodies having a look around and chatting to the owner about "stuff"... (Planets lining up or what..!)
Back in the garage, and with everything in place and attached, I took up the strain.
The engine was lifted up to just off the floor and I let it sit there for a while thinking the whole contraption would collapse [which it didn't.] Then I removed the steel engine transit frame that was attached to the engine mount bolt holes, and of which kept it secure and stable during transit. Then I attached the engine mounts (hand tight only) my rationale being to drop [metaphorically speaking] the engine directly onto the chassis mounting plates... (More on this later.)
So with the radiator and cross-member bars removed from the chassis, it was time to have the engine and gearbox gain some altitude.
I raised the engine and gearbox to about 45 cm off the floor and rolled the chassis underneath as far as it would go. Then I turned the handle on the leveler-bar to lower the back end to allow the gearbox to clear the top chassis bar at the back of the engine bay. I had this bar protected with a stout piece of webbing to protect the powder coat if I knocked it with the bell housing.
- The engine mounts, these being already fitted to the engine, were in the way and were snagging on the two chassis engine mounting plates. This had the effect of not allowing the bell housing to clear the top bar of the chassis frame, therefore it would not go down or in any further; so I removed them which allowed the box to drop down more and slip under the top bar, and in, very nicely.
- I had to be very careful not to dink the front brake pipe with the front of the sump. There is an "L" shaped part of the brake pipe run that protrudes a couple of inches inwards towards the sump. I assume it's there to absorb vibration, and it was a simple task of just maneuvering the sump around it until it cleared the pipe.
Also, at this point in the proceedings, I reattached the mounts and gently lowered the engine down until it was just touching the chassis plates... (So far so good and no drama.)
Then, after ~30 minutes of admiring and jiggling to square everything up, the tension was fully released and the engine and gearbox were in and sitting pretty... (Definitely tea and chocolate digestive time.)
For completeness (and safety), I moved the front flexible brake line by re-positioning the "P" clip (the one just below the lower pulley.) It was originally running along the top of the bar directly under the moving pulley but with only about 1 cm clearance. Wasn't comfortable with this so I moved it to the front of the bar and well out of the way of any movement and bouncing.
Prior to all of the above, I test-fitted the mounts on the chassis plates to ensure they would move from side-to-side as they were designed to. They are designed to move about +-0.3 cm each way; and I assume this movement has something to do with getting the engine to sit properly... (But that's a too technical thought for me at this stage.) I used M12 bolts to secure the engine mounts to the chassis with a couple of washers to take up the slack.
Prop Shaft: Having the gearbox in position with the gearstick centralized, I measured the distance accurately between the back of the gearbox and the front of the diff' for the prop shaft. Took a picture and sent it to GD and placed an order.