This article covers the steering column, steering shafts and rack and the steering wheel.
The first thing to do was to drill a hole in the bulkhead for the column. Drilled the hole just a tad bigger than the diameter of the column shaft, slotted it in and temporarily bolted it in place. For securing there are two dashboard cross-member fixing points and a chassis mounting bracket which holds a regular exhaust bracket which clamps around the column shaft.
The top steering shaft is supported by a heavy duty rose joint i.e. the type with the self-aligning bearing and the lower shaft slots into the steering rack. All this is held together by three UJ's.
Dry fitted everything together, not forgetting that each UJ's needed to be assembled with each subsequent spline bolt 90º out of phase with its predecessor. Also, each shaft-end needed the groove deepened to accommodate the M8 bolt. However, at this early stage, I'm just going to use smaller bolts to get all the measurements and angles right. Then when I'm ready to fit-for-good I'll widen the grooves for the proper bolts.
Widened out the bulkhead hole to accommodate the steering shaft rubber gaiter and I will have to repaint the lower end of the steering column casing as I scratched it many times when trial fitting.
Assembly was straightforward, but I did have to cut about 1 cm off one end of the lower shaft as it was a tad too long. This is normal procedure for the GD Euro as the shafts are stock... So far so good!
Not having the dashboard made up yet, and not having any seats to sit on, I guesstimated the final position of the column, my positioning being with the steering wheel as far forward as possible (there's about 2-3 cm of adjustment to play with.) This consideration needs to be factored in for the rose height and its potential adjustment range. I.e. If I have the steering wheel further from the dash' the rose would have to sit lower down.
Turning Circle: When everything is in place and adjusted e.g. ride height etc. I will have to put a turning circle 'end-stop' inside the gaiter of each arm of the steering rack. This to restrict the turn of the rack, therefore, preventing the tyres from catching on the engine bay side wall... Once again, normal procedure but not ready to do this yet.
Self-Cancelling Indicators: To enable these I had to position and drill for a couple of pins, which I positioned on the inside of the steering wheel boss. These will 'trip' the little plastic lug that pops out of the stalk when the indicator is activated. I used a couple of M3 socket-head cap bolts for this as the head is a perfect size to ‘catch’ the plastic lug. Lots of measuring for this as the drill holes were quite close to the outer edge of the boss.