This Section Is About All Things Cooling

Fitting the radiator was quite straightforward but a bit fiddly. It came with 4 x 3.2 mm rivets for fixing to the single hole at each end of the support frame, but not having a 3.2 mm drill bit, I changed them to 4 mm (I tried a 3 mm hole on a piece of scrap ali' and it wasn't happening, and I wasn't going to force it.

Fixed the fan on the rails (4 x M6 nuts) and placed the whole lot on the radiator and marked it up for drilling and riveting. Point of caution here. The bottom water rail is quite close to the radiator frame so I couldn't mess this up. Made a 2 mm pilot hole first then drilled out to 4 mm to complete the support frame upgrade. I also used a bench drill stand when drilling to ensure vertical holes and, most importantly, to ensure nothing grabbed.

The fan is a 16 inch curved-blade beast of a thing and is [factory] configured to "push" the air. Not concerned about this at the moment as it is only one centre bolt to change the fan around to make it "pull" the air. I've mounted the fan on the back of the radiator so it needs to pull the air through; and as it's an induction fan (and as I don't know which way it's going to turn,) I could probably just reverse the polarity of the motor if needed, but I'll have to do see what's really happening before I consider that option.

Looking at the lower mounting plates, I decided to stick on 2 mm thick rubber insulation pads. I then put some rubber tube over the two top pegs, as lateral insulation was required... So far so good.

Took the fan off to mount the radiator in the chassis and put a cardboard protector over the front matrix to protect that. Also, as I have the body-shell on the chassis, I took off the two front cross-member bars to make more room to manoeuvre the radiator. I also loosened the radiator top frame to make more vertical room. A very generous hour later, job done... Except, I have to shorten a couple of bolts for the lower fixings. Not comfortable with bolting into the radiator without precisely knowing how far the lower water rail is from the bottom. There is 5 mm of thread on the radiator fixing hole, and I have to allow for the chassis frame mounting plate and a bit of squishing of the rubber pads... Starting to really look good now.


Hoses, Sensors and Coolant Fittings: Not sure if I'll get silicon or rubber hoses yet... I see the advantage of both, so I'll ponder that until I need to make a decision. One major headache though is engine thread size for the various sensors and engine cooling fittings. I'll have to be really careful on this one as they are all NPT. Hand tight all the way in first before a 1/4 - 1/2 turn nip up (so the theory says.) Have to look into this much much more.