This Article Is About Dashboard Electrics

Dash' Electrical Components:

  • Loom:
    • GD 
  • Gauges:
    • Speedhut
  • Components:
    • Fog Light Switch: CBS
    • Heater Control Knob: CBS (The old-fashioned pull/push Bakelite type)
    • Heater Fan Switch: CBS (The old-fashioned Bakelite type)
    • Light Switch: CBS (The old-fashioned Bakelite type)
    • Starter Button: Pilgrim Motorsports
    • Warning Lights: CBS (Chrome LED's)

Dashboard Loom


The Speedhut gauges are very nice... Not too bulky and they come with all sensors and plugs so hooking up was quite straightforward. 0.2 Amp per unit, and a single wire hook-up for power, dial and pointer illumination. One thing that was bugging me was how the sensors electrically connected into the GD loom... Fears allayed by research... They didn't need to, but this was an option.

The yellow wires are the individual sensor feeds. I'm not going to recreate or unnecessarily complicate things by using the engine loom plug as an interface to the dash' loom because the sensor wires are are all factory made up and ready to plug directly into each sensor.

On the functionality side of the house, I made a ply mock-up dash' of just what I needed to see when the engine was running; then I connect everything up to the obvious within the loom and sensors. I didn't want to have to faff around with my 'real' dashboard blank as it would have gotten in the way of the wires and things if I need to fiddle and fix things. What I wanted was everything working before I properly assembled.

Connected up the gauges illumination and pointer [serial feed] power and gnd lines to an unused pair of terminals on the dash' loom (L5 (Light Switch) RW and B.) The [internal] power for all the gauges is provided from a single 12v keyed ignition wire (red), and there is a gauge brightness knob which I will mount on the dash' somewhere (no idea where yet.)

Self-Cancelling Indicators: To enable these I had to position and drill for a couple of pins, which I positioned on the inside of the steering wheel boss. These will 'trip' the little plastic lug that pops out of the stalk when the indicator is activated. I used a couple of M3 socket-head cap bolts for this as the head is a perfect size to ‘catch’ the plastic lug. Lots of measuring for this as the drill holes were quite close to the outer edge of the boss.